Early check-in from 14:00 is confirmed. Change into something comfortable for walking; you won't be back until the evening.

For you: a quiet courtyard room, soft low pillow for Sophie, firm one for Daniel, AC set to 20 °C.

Plan B: room not ready? Bags stay at reception and the day starts as planned; you change into the room after dinner.

The quietest island in Paris: 17th-century houses, small shops and the best view of Notre-Dame's apse from the western tip.

For you: a scoop at Berthillon on the main street. It is open Wednesday to Sunday, so Thursday works.

Plan B: long queue at Berthillon? The cafés on the same street serve the same ice cream with no wait.

Restored after the 2019 fire and brighter inside than it has been for centuries. A free time slot is reserved, so you skip the general line.

For you: beautiful old interiors, no queue.

Plan B: service or closure? See the façade from the square, then the flying buttresses from Square Jean-XXIII behind it.

The classic literary café for a glass of wine and watching Saint-Germain go by. Heated terrace in the evening.

For you: a slow first evening, outside, with a view of the street.

Plan B: terrace full? Les Deux Magots, 30 metres away, has the same view.

Yves Camdeborde's bistro, one of the places that started modern Paris bistro cooking. Hearty, generous, always full.

For you: table by the window; the kitchen knows Sophie can't have shellfish.

Plan B: running late? Call ahead; Paris bistros rarely hold a table past 15 minutes. Or L'Avant Comptoir next door, standing, no booking.

The Hôtel Amour bar, two minutes from your room. Ideal before a slow Friday morning.

Croissant and coffee at one of the bakeries where Parisians actually queue. Keep it light; lunch is the main event.

Grand staircase, gold foyer and Chagall's painted ceiling. Go to the foyer first, before the groups arrive.

For you: the most beautiful interior in Paris, seen at opening time.

Plan B: closed for a rehearsal? Swap with the Galeries Lafayette dome and rooftop, three minutes away, and visit the Opéra at 15:15.

3Wine Gate & the rooftopWine tasting

Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, 9e

A wine tasting inside the department store, under its famous glass dome. Then up to the free rooftop terrace for the view over the Opéra roof and the whole city.

For you: a real tasting instead of a bar crawl, and the first big view of the trip.

Plan B: terrace closed for weather? The dome viewing walkway inside gives you the same wow, dry.

4Lunch at ChenapanBooked

28 Rue de la Tour d'Auvergne, 9e

Your fine-dining moment. Lunch here is served only on Friday and Saturday from 12:00, which is why the Opéra day falls on a Friday.

For you: star-level cooking at lunch, usually far cheaper than the same kitchen at dinner. Booked under Daniel; no shellfish for Sophie, no raw fish for Daniel.

Plan B: running late from the tasting? A 15-minute delay was mentioned in the booking email; call if it gets longer.

Glass-roofed arcades from the 1800s with old bookshops, cane makers, print sellers and tea rooms. Dry the whole way.

For you: beautiful old interiors and slow browsing after a long lunch.

If it stays dry: the original plan, Rue des Martyrs and the SoPi boutiques, walking back towards the hotel.

Classic French dishes at old-fashioned prices in a big, buzzing room. After the long lunch, a lighter, lively evening.

Plan B: still full from lunch? Cheese and a glass of wine at the hotel bar, no booking needed.

Taxi at 8:40 so you are inside at 9:00. Mona Lisa first while the room is quiet, then the Venus de Milo and the Winged Victory staircase.

Plan B: long line at the Pyramid? Ticket holders can use the Carrousel entrance under the arch.

Out through the garden, green chairs around the big pond, a coffee at Café Véry under the trees.

Italian-French cooking on a terrace overlooking the Tuileries. Terrace requested, heaters on if it is cool.

Plan B: terrace closed? The inside room has the same garden view through tall windows.

Security takes about 20 minutes on a Saturday; the ticket time already allows for it. At the top, Gustave Eiffel's little office is on the same level.

Plan B: summit closed for wind? Stay on the second floor, it has the better photos anyway.

Stand on the platform, a camera spins around you and you get a slow-motion 360° clip. Dance, twirl, throw the scarf. Two minutes, big laugh.

Two spots with the tower straight behind you, in the warmest light of the day. Street photographers work here; how to pick the best one is on the photo page.

Sunset is about 18:40, right in the middle of the cruise. Upper open deck; sit on the side facing the tower as you pull away, and switch sides on the way back.

Plan B: sold out? Vedettes de Paris leave from the next pier, a 3-minute walk, every 30 to 60 minutes.

A real Paris bistro: red-checked tablecloths, a fountain outside, classic cooking done properly. Corner table by the window.

For you: dessert arrives with one candle, no singing. Champagne is on ice in your room for later.

Plan B: want a view instead? Monsieur Bleu at the Palais de Tokyo faces the tower, 10 min by taxi; ask the hotel to call for a table.